Bests & Worsts Reviews from Amazon

I was initially skeptical to pursue frosted window films in general but after reading many good reviews on this I thought I would give it a try since I had two windows at the time I placed my purchase that I wanted to apply this to for privacy but to still have enough light come through. The film is pretty durable and is very easy to install. It came with a squeegee to allow for pushing bubbles out that is created during installation. IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure that you apply enough water to the window prior to film installation as this would make it much easier to get the bubbles out and not have them appear days later after installation. The instructions called for cutting the film roughly to size and leaving about an inch in excess on 2 of the adjacent sides. When I performed the 'final' cuts I didn't make them very accurate and there are very noticeable separation between the film and my window frame. To put it in perspective if light was shining through you can see where the light isn't diffused by the film because of said gap. After experiencing this I decided to do my own thing for window #2. My instructions assume that you are applying this to a square/rectangular window. If you don't feel comfortable cutting essentially into your window (I elaborate in #2 below) then please don't follow along. 1) What I did for my second window installation that was MUCH easier was to use the factory-cut edges for at least 2 sides of the film (take the left side and top for instance) and an inch-or-so excess on the right and bottom sides of the size of your window. BEFORE MAKING ANY CUTS, move the film into place that puts it flush with the top and left sides (remember, these are the factory cut sides I just stated above). Be careful not to cause bends and folds in the film when maneuvering. Also, be sure to get rid of any protruding deficiencies out from the edges of the window and the window-frame or else over time it will cause your film to pull away from the window drying out the water that was behind it. It would then make it difficult to cling back to the window later - for instance there was adhesive that protruded out from the bottom-right window corner that I cut out carefully. Another example was that there were tiny 'shards' sticking out from my window frame that I had to remove, again, BEFORE applying the film ). 2) When you have your film in place take a sharp utility blade (PLEASE USE A NEW BLADE) and put it in the top-right corner of the window, take the squeegee and use it to create a straight-edge for cutting. Your blade should be at an angle that gets your cut as close to the edge of the window and window frame as possible; I held my blade at a 45 degree angle from the surface of the window placed in the crack where my window meets the window frame. The blade MUST BE SHARP because you don't want the blade to snag the film and you don't want to have to apply much pressure for cutting. 3) PLEASE TAKE YOUR TIME! When cutting I HIGHLY RECOMMEND having a second person hold the film while you (or someone else) does the cutting! What also happened on Window #1 for me was that while cutting the film slightly shifted on me and my cut wasn't accurate. Lesson learned. As you begin to cut move the squeegee down at the same time SLOWLY. Be sure to keep pushing the squeegee into the blade so that it continues to cause the blade to be flush to the edge of the window and window frame (shooting for straight cuts here). When you get to the bottom-right corner, roughly finish your cut slowly and carefully so that the excess film doesn't pull the film you want to apply to your window off. If the film shifts just put the factory cuts sides back into position again. This 'finish cut' should be done so that you are not ruining/wasting film, if at all possible. For instance, when my cut made it to the bottom-right corner of my window I made a diagonal cut away from the window corner that removed the access from the right-side of the film; removing this access makes the bottom cut much easier! 4) Make sure that your film is still in position and use the same cutting technique to finish your last cut needed for the bottom of the window. Once finished there should be no noticeable gap between your film and window frame. 5) Last but not least, use the squeegee for its intended purpose to 'roll' out any air bubbles under the film. Have some kind of liquid absorbent material ready to prevent the excess water from running down your door/wall. I will add that it is normal for your film to move while squeegeeing. I recommend continuously re-positioning the film as to not have it get too out-of-place; may be overly obvious but just to be clear, you can do this very easy by simply putting both hands flat on the film at the same time and apply pressure TOWARDS the area you want it to go. 1/14/14 UPDATE: I applied the film in February '13 and it STILL looks fantastic with no visible bubbles or any separation of the film from the window/window-frame. 10/22/14 UPDATE: Film was applied 20 months ago and still looks great! No newly introduced bubbles, no peeling or drying out. As stated looks great! 12/18/14 EDIT: Made instructions easier to read 3/18/15 UPDATE: If you don't feel comfortable cutting into your window by any means you MAY be able to get away with cutting out cardboard, or some other material, to the exact size of your window (see my response to a comment in this review) - then one could just use scissors if need be. Even with applying very little pressure while cutting you will most likely still cut into your glass. With having the blade angled and getting it up in the crack where the window meets window frame would at least remotely hide such potential imperfections than if you were to cut holding the blade perpendicular to the window. Just a thought.