Bests & Worsts Reviews from Amazon

I received my Ridgid K-400 yesterday evening with overnight shipping (Prime + $3.99 for overnight). That in itself is pretty amazing for a 70 lb. machine. I read the instructions and watched the DVD last night, and used the machine this morning. These are my findings: 1. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS: You might think you know how to use it, but I have no doubt I would have used the "reverse" wrong if I had not read first. 2. This machine is expensive....or not. When you consider that the next size machine is about $2800 (something like your plumber would bring out, and that the going rate for that professional service in my town is $300) then it seems like a bargain to me. 3. Figure out in advance that this machine comes with one of two cables: 100 ft. of 3/8" diameter OR 75 ft. of 1/2" diameter. I did not know the limitations of the 3/8" cable, all I knew was that I wanted the largest cable it came in, and so I paid the extra $50 for the shorter but bigger cable. 4. After you read the instructions you will learn that the 3/8" cable is used for up to 3" pipe. My main line is 4", so I got lucky with buying the 1/2" cable, which is good up to 4" pipe. But I did not know this in advance. From my cleanout to the end of the line is 60 ft. If yours exceeds 75 ft., then I suppose you would have to go with the 3/8" cable...but I am certain you will lose some capability. 5. One of the reason that cable size matters is breakage, but I don't think that is the primary reason. There is a relationship between pipe size and cable size that needs to be adhered to. The natural tendency of this spiral wound cable going round and round is to wrap itself up and get tangled and tied (you do not want this to happen in your pipe). The larger the pipe and the smaller the cable, the more likely this can happen. Also the 1/2" is stiffer, which also resists the tangles. As a matter of reference, the machine your plumber brings out has a 3/4" cable, so the closer you get to that the better. 6. Because of this tendency to wind up when in a too-large pipe, the instructions pretty much say don't go into the larger line (in my case the "city line") that the line on your property finally dumps into. Problem is, that very juncture is where a lot of clogs happen. In my case I believe there is probably not a tight connection between my line and the city line, and that is where roots enter the system. So the first thing I did was pull the cable out of the machine and lay it on the ground from my clean-out to where I think the city line runs (is in an easement at rear property line). I wrapped some duct tape around the cable at that distance so that I would have a good idea of when I was about to hit the city line while I was feeding it out. Turns out this was a smart thing to do and I recommend it. When I got to that tape, I slowed way down on the feed-out, maybe a couple inches at a time, so I would not have a couple of feet of cable swinging around unsupported in the larger city line (you can pretty much tell from the cable action in your hands when you have entered the larger pipe). 7. The instructions say "not designed for root blockages". Something else a person would not know in advance unless he read Amazon reviews. I could see no reason a strong 1/2" cable would not work on root blockages if you used a cutter type tool on the end, instead of the typical spiral bulb tool that would probably just push through the roots and do no clearing. The cutting tool that comes with the machine is really too small, so I did 3 things: 1. First I ordered 2 larger end tools...but don't have them yet (there are many to choose from). 2. Second I opened up the small cutting tool (instructions say it is for "grease clogs") so that it was a little wider. 3. Third, with my 2 hands I put a slight bend in the end of the cable so that it would cut a wider swath as it went through the 4" pipe. It worked, as I suspected it would. When the new cutter tools come in, I expect them to work even better (if I can get past the first bend at the cleanout with them). 8. I did not buy the model with the auto-feed, so I cannot comment on how the machine would work with it. With the manual feed (which is what ever plumber that has come to my house has on his machine), it is very easy to feed out, and is very easy to feel in the cable what is likely going on inside the pipe. As I am feeding out the cable manually, I am wondering why anyone would pay extra for the auto-feed. Then it was time to feed the cable back in. If going out is "X" effort, then coming back in is "3X". But still very doable, just plan on working up a bit of a sweat. Also if the cable should bind or get caught, you have to turn auto-feed off anyway. Auto-feed might be a good thing, but I am completely satisfied without it, and no moving part to break (except maybe my wrist). 9. I have been plagued by roots and blockages this past year, when never before in the past 30 years that I have been in the house. I have been told by more than one person that because of the drought we went through last year, that the roots are going out to hunt water wherever they can find it. Could be. I only know that if your expensive plumber shows up to route out your line, and all he has on the end of his cable is the typical spiral bulb, you are going to be calling him again soon (don't ask me how I know)...and then you learn that they don't guarantee their work for clearing roots. After paying for a couple of those trips, I now do not expect to be calling them again for drain stoppages. 10. Last piece of advice: As someone already mentioned, do not brag to friends or family that you have this machine. UPDATE: The larger cutting tool came in and I tried it out. There are several types made by Ridgid, but mine is sort of a spiral cutter. It went through the first pipe bend just fine. However this pipe bend is within sight and with the slight bend I made in the cable, I can angle the cutting head toward the opening of the pipe bend before I turn on the machine. Went right in and started chewing.