Bests & Worsts Reviews from Amazon

After 2 near accidents, I decided to get a dashcam just in case there's a dispute about the facts. I did a lot of research online; several top 10 ten dashcams articles and Youtube videos, and the consensus is that the A119 V3 is the best dashcam under $200. Linus Tech Tips summarized there's only two dashcams in this range; the A119 and everything else. Unboxing After ordering the dashcam, things got a little complicated. It came with a set of accessories and cables, but no instructions. Older versions of the A119 didn’t come with the GPS mount (sold separately) and some of the additional accessories; the newest version of the A119 comes with the latest firmware, and a host of additional accessories. The dashcam, cables, and cigarette lighter adapter didn't need any instructions. The clips for hiding the cables, and trim tool made sense, but the GPS mounting unit as well as the 2 extra mounting units, 3M pads, and 2 transparent sheets for the glass didn't have any instructions. It would have been nice to have a short descriptor about each accessory. I can appreciate that they included extra non-GPS mounting unit if you have more than one vehicle, extra 3M mounting stickers if you make a mistake or want to readjust the placement, and the 2 screen protectors so you don't mess up your window. I had to watch a few installation videos to figure out that the screen protector is to protect the front windshield from the 3M adhesive and to make it easier to remove the mounts. The screen protector even has 2 sticky sides, but one side is for the glass, and the other less sticky side is for the mount. The instructions need to be updated to explain the additional accessories. Firmware Once you get your dashcam, check your firmware. The most recent version as of December 2022 is V2.6. The firmware improves the performance and resolution of the dashcam. If you watch older videos of the A119, they did not have the same high resolution video options. Newer videos take full advantage of the 4k resolution and WDR improvement. If you purchased your dashcam recently, it should come shipped with the latest firmware. But check to make sure you have the most recent version. Firmware updates are easy to perform using your memory card and menu setting. Settings The settings that come with the dashcam aren’t necessarily the best settings for your dashcam. One problem with updating the firmware is that the optimal settings are constantly changing. If you look at older optimal settings, they are very different than the most current optimal settings. Make sure the settings that are recommended are for the latest firmware. Battery There are two options for powering the dashcam. You can have it temporarily powered when the ignition is on, and when you’re driving. The other option is to have it powered on at all times. The first option uses the cigarette lighter adapter and the USB cable. The second option requires installing a wiring kit (sold separately) that gets plugged into your fusebox. Since the dashcam is always on, the second option allows you to use parking mode and act as a sentry for your vehicle. In parking mode, it can record continually, it can automatically record in intervals, or when motion or vibrations are detected. When I asked installers about the powering options, they discouraged the second option in newer vehicles. The second option can potentially drain the battery to the point where your car won’t start. One installer said if you keep it in a garage and there isn’t much activity in the garage, it shouldn’t affect your battery much. If you park on the street and there’s lots of activity, the dashcam will be working all day, and can drain a weak battery. If you’re planning to leave your car unattended outdoors for several weeks, it will definitely drain your battery. Wiring The problem with all dashcams is the ugly wiring that’s required to hide the charging cables. If you’re squeamish about opening and tucking in cables behind moldings and trim, the cables will dangle from the dashcam to your nearest 12V outlet. When I asked my mechanic about the cable work, he warned me about the potentially damaging airbags and sensors that are in the front windshield columns. There’s always a good chance you can damage the plastic moldings and trim when you’re prying them open. You can always run the cables tucked along the edge of the front windshield, and along the door jams to get near your 12V outlet or fusebox. After watching dozens of videos about dashcam wiring, I came across the Dongar adapter which takes advantage of the rear view mirror electronics. It requires an electronic rear view mirror with dimming, compass, or garage door functions. The dongle splices a USB port from an existing power connector that goes from the mirror to the roof console. It uses the first power option and will only work when the ignition is on, or when you’re driving, like the electronic rear view mirror. If your rear view mirror does not have any electronic function, you can not use the Dongar adapter. Placement Most dashcams will turn off after a few seconds, so you don’t have to worry about the video distracting the driver. Make sure it’s placed somewhere that doesn’t interfere with your driving, but can capture as much video as possible. Most articles recommend placing it near the top of your windshield. Having the dashcam mounted near the top of the windshield does make it more inconspicuous than having it mounted near the dashboard. It should also be within reach in case you need to push the hazard button to lock the overwrite function.