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These are outstanding dimmers, but only for homes with a neutral wire (usually a cluster of white wires in the very back of the junction box, found in newer homes built since the 80s). There is also firmware bug in these switches that I confirmed with Lutron tech support on 3/31/2017 that prevents you from setting accurate trim levels. The work-around to the firmware bug is explained here. The first thing you need to know about this switch is that your LEDs may still buzz with it unless you switch the phasing from forward to reverse. The instructions in the Advanced Caseta Installation guide are incorrect or at least unclear. The correct way to switch the phasing from MLV (Magnetic Low Voltage) to ELV (Electronic Low Voltage -- the type of phasing preferred by LED bulbs) is to: 1. Pull out the tiny hidden tab at the bottom of the switch for 3 seconds. Push the tab back in then. 2. Simultaneously hold down the On and Off buttons for about 10 seconds 3. The top and bottom LEDs either light or flash. If the top LED flashes, the switch is operating in MLV mode. If the bottom LED flashes, the switch is operating in ELV mode. To toggle modes, press the Favorite button until the correct LED flashes. If you are using LED lights, use the bottom ELV mode. 4. Commit the phase change by holding Off for about 6 seconds. The above actions eliminate the buzz in LED lights. The second thing you need to know is this switch has an upper and lower trim function so that you can create a linear dimming range. This is especially helpful for LED bulbs which cannot usually dim as low as incandescents. All Caseta dimmers have an upper and lower trim function, but the firmware implementation on the PD-5NE is buggy and the trim functions aren't working accurately unless you follow these instructions. 1. Set the lower trim first. Hold down On and the Down arrow for 10 seconds until the LED blinks to show the lower trim level. 2. Set the lower trim level to the dimmest (or just above the dimmest) that your lights can go. Most LEDs cannot get as dim as incandescents. 3. Commit the lower trim setting by holding Off for 6 seconds. Then turn the light off. 4. VERY IMPORTANT: The microprocessor is running buggy firmware. You must now pull the hidden tab at the bottom of the switch for three seconds to kill the power to the microprocessor. Then push it back in. This act effectively reboots the internal microprocessor and is needed to ensure the high trim function doesn't overwrite or otherwise mess-up your low trim setting. 5. Now set the high trim to the highest that you want your lights to go. A lot of LEDs reach their maximum brightness well before the high trim mark is reached. For a truly linear dimming experience, set the high trim to the maximum brightness level your eyes can perceive. This will make the dimming appear smooth and linear for a better user experience. Set the high trim by holding down On and the Up arrow for 10 seconds until the LED blinks to show the upper trim level. 6. Set the upper trim level to the brightest (or just below the brightest) that your lights can go. Most LEDs reach maximum brightness well before the high trim mark. 7. Commit the upper trim setting by holding Off for 6 seconds. Then turn the light off. 8. VERY IMPORTANT: Because of the buggy firmware, pull the pin on the switch to cut the power for three seconds to reset the microprocessor. Push the pin back in. Then verify that the low trim is accurate by pressing the up arrow once. The dimness of the light should be precisely what you specified in steps 2-3. Verify the high trim setting is accurate by turning the light on full power. The brightness should be what you specified in steps 6-7. 9. Verify the phasing is still set correctly. There should be no buzzing throughout the dimming range. My own user experience suggests that setting the trim can, in certain scenarios, cause the switch to forget whether you specified forward or reverse phasing (ELV vs. MLV). You may need to repeat the phasing setting to ensure there's no buzzing. Lutron tells me they will investigate this firmware bug and the switch ought to be software updatable they claim. I imagine any update would be issued through the Smart Bridge 2. I await their investigation. In the meantime, this work around enables you to establish accurate upper and lower trim functions that stick (or are remembered) correctly.