Bests & Worsts Reviews from Amazon

This sharpener does not give a good edge and contrary to the instructions, it should not be used on Japanese knives. The instructions for the sharpener leave a lot of questions unanswered. Using each of the three stages is supposed to create a three-beveled edge. What are the angles of the micro bevels? How large are the segments of the micro-bevel? How large should they be with different types of steel? The first bevel of the tri-bevel is supposed to be 15 degrees. Edgecraft implies that if you sharpen your knives to 15 degrees you will have an amazingly sharp knife just like that. But the truth is more blunt. Most knives in the under $50 range use steel with an HRC of 55 or less. Many stainless steels used in knives, besides being soft, also have large carbide structures which won't let the knife take a very keen edge. Most consumers are using very hard cutting boards—hard plastic and bamboo boards being very popular these days. The combination of soft steel with large carbides, 15 degree edge, and hard boards means that the knife—assuming it could even take a 15 degree edge—will not stay sharp very long. Not surprisingly, a knife which was never designed to be sharpened to 15 degrees per side does not perform well when sharpened to 15 degrees per side. According to the instructions, the first and second stage create a rough edge with "micro- grooves." Edgecraft claims that this is a good thing, but in fact, it just means the knife is not sharpened well. I compared a knife sharpened with the Edgecraft to both double-bevel and single-bevel knives that had been properly sharpened with polished edges. It was obvious while cutting and in the appearance of the cut product which was which. A very sharp polished edge gives a much better surface with less crushing and tearing than a rough or "micro-groved" edge. This was obvious when cutting tomatoes and carrots and cubing beef. Edgecraft also hints that this can be used on Japanese knives by saying this is a sharpener for "Asian-style knives." This sharpener should not be used on a Japanese knife. For several reasons, the sharpener will ruin the blade profile of a Japanese blade. Not all Japanese knives have a 15 degree edge. Unlike proper sharpening, the Edgecraft sharpener does not sharpen the entire shinogi surface and the sharpener does not raise the shinogi line. On a single bevel knife, the sharpener cannot be used on the uraoshi—it won't reach the top of the blade, and it will sharpen the bottom at fifteen instead of zero degrees. Edgecraft makes no representation how the first and second stages would do on very hard steel over HRC 62, the sort of steel found in Japanese knives. I am afraid that the first and second stages would cause chipping and the knife would never get sharp. I didn't try. The sharpener does scratch knives. Metal shavings and dust coat the sharpener’s grooves, scratching the blade as the knife is drawn through. Sometimes the scratches are faint; sometimes they are not. I also found the sharpener left metal dust under and around it. I wondered how much was getting in the air. If you are using this to sharpen knives all day, maybe wear a dust mask. Because the sharpener creates a rough edge, because the angle can not be adjusted to match the steel and use of the knife, because the sharpener cannot be used on Japanese knives, because the sharpener scratched knives and because the sharpener left metal powder around it, I returned this sharpener. My knives continue to be sharpened with stones.