161
people found this helpful, as of 2023
ranked #204,388 most helpful
out of 571,544,897 reviews
★★☆☆☆
Doesn't come with some of the most important parts of the system that should be sold with the base unit.GR-100 or GR-200.
When I got this I took the time to watch the videos which were most excellent. I set it up with the stabilizer leg out on the left side. I made sure the saw blade would go through the "tunnel" etc. I fire up the table saw to rip some scrap unfinished cabinet side panels in to boards so I could glue them together and make useful boards out of them. As I start to push the board through the saw with a new Diablo blade and the wood cuts in about an inch and the GRR-RIPPER just slides along the top. Yes I had the one 1/4" leg to the right side as well as the large center leg over to the right side against the fence to provide more contact of the rubber to the wood. If you buy ether the GR-100 or the GR-200 which is the one I purchased you might as well order the GRR-RIPPER Gravity Heel Kit GRR-RIPPER Gravity Heel Kit. Or you may have to do as I did, and setup a feather board and push the boards through with your push stick with my new GRR-RIPPER 200 sitting off to one side on the bench.
It’s sold as a modular "system" and it truly is. It’s very well engineered and the quality is outstanding. You just need to purchase the rest of the basic kit that it should have come with it! I purchased this for my hand safety as I cut a lot of 2”-4" wide hardwood. Now I won't use it until the Gravity Heel kit comes in so I can use it safety. I don't like safety equipment that leaves you partially cut with a blade whirling and all of a sudden you are looking for how to get out of this mess without getting hurt. The easy answer is, first turn off the saw and stay to one side until the blade stops. Then work out what went wrong with the cut and proceed with reliable safe method to finish the job you started I look forward to receiving the Gravity Heel Kit as I do like the idea behind his system. Just not how it comes out of the box.
Now that I have had time to review the GRR-RIP Smart Hook Push Block GRR-RIP BLOCK Smart Hook Pushblock I if you really don't need all of the fancy extras in a Push Block, but want a reliable easy system to use. I would recommend you look into buying two GRR-RIP Smart Hook Plush Blocks. You can get two of these cheaper than the GR-100. I would encourage you to go to the link above and watch the video for this product. It might be what you are really looking for. It is rated at 4.8 Stars. If I had it over again, this is the direction I would go. It's more in line with what I do and what I need. They are simple which is what makes them reliable.
Update 9-21-2016: I looked down the green bottom surface and could see it was very shiny. Obviously it did have a lot of residual mold release as the manufacturer suggested it might have. I finely found time to buy a pint of Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) and snitch one of my wife's tin foil pans. I put in ~ 1.8 inch of alcohol like the instructions in the manufacturers video showed and let the GRR-RIPPER soak for 5 minutes. After wiping it off and went out to give it a try. The first 2 1/2 ft long 3/4" piece of cherry went through that blade just super. The GRR-RIPPER held great and I was excited. On the second board I noticed it starting to slip before I got all the way through the cut. On the third board I could only cut about one inch and it just slid up the board.
But not to be a quitter I used clean alcohol and a paper towel to wipe the pan clean before adding more. I again put in 1/8” of alcohol in the pan and let the GRR-RIPPER soak for another 5 minutes. I wiped it dry and went out to test it again. This time I was only taking about 1/32” off the side of a piece of cherry about 1 ½” high and 12” long using the ½” wide rubber foot and the stabilizer leg down to support the GRR-RIPPER on the left side of the blade. I set the stabilizer by holding the GRR-RIPPER on the board and allowed the stabilizer side to go down flat onto the table saw and tightened the screws. The first board went through as long as I held a lot of downward pressure. The second skim cut was about the same 1/32”. I had my push stick to the side of me just encase. It stopped pushing about halfway through a 12” long board. Nothing I did would get this board through a skim cut. So I was back to where I started. I had purchased the 1/8" Gripper leg accessory hoping to rip some material for banding. I also purchased the GRR-RIPPER Gravity Heel Kit none of which I have even taken out of the package. So now I’m up to about $100 and a simple push stick made out of scrap wood works much better than this expensive push block. I could not in good consciousness recommend this product to anyone.
As a Side note: I have noticed that there seems to be a sunken in area that is oval shaped on the main wide rubber base. As best as I can measure it is ~.015 - .020 inch deep. I don’t know if this is a manufacturing defect or just how this comes out of the mold. So I would estimate that about only 20% of the rubber on the main ~ 1” wide middle leg would be in contact with the wood at any one time. I have included photos showing the initial shiny slick surface of the rubber base and the after cleaning view showing the recessed area. I really like the idea of this push block system, and I believe I went beyond fair trying to make this work, but unless this is a manufacturing defect, or I keep a pan of alcohol by me and soaked it every couple of times I used it, I’m ready to throw in the towel. I tried to return all of the Microjig GRR-RIPPER products I purchased, but I was passed the 30day Amazon limit for the GRR-RIPPER and the 1/8” leg. So I’ve emailed Microjig to see if they would give me a refund. We’ll have to see what they are willing to do.
September 2016 · Tools and Home Improvement · verified purchase