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Flour, Water, Etc. Plus a Lot of Special Equipment You Probably Don't Have
This manual is for committed bakers in search of the perfect loaf of European, hearth-style artisanal breads, as "perfection" is defined by Ken Forkish. The bread may very well be excellent. And it would not surprise me to learn that it is indeed better than any other artisan bread achievable by home bakers. The commitment required, however, extends not just to the time and care spent in creating the poolish, biga, levain and breads that are the subject of this book. Forkish's vision of perfection also requires an investment of at least $100, if one doesn't already own (and who does?) a 4-quart cast iron Dutch oven (only available online, at least in this area), a behemoth of a 12-quart proofing container + lid, and 2 6-quart containers with lids. And let's not forget that 1/16 teaspoon that also must be ordered. If one doesn't already have two brotforms and a scale, throw in another $100. And then try to figure out where to put those giant tubs in your tiny kitchen. Forkish offers no workarounds or alternatives, other than to concede that you may use a 5-quart Dutch oven if that's what you have; but then he warns you that the loaf won't be as good. I don't have a 5-quart Dutch oven, so I'll be spared the temptation to make that compromise.
I don't fault Forkish for insisting that this is the only way to make bread like the "Ken's Artisan Bakery" boules. Furthermore, I'm not opposed to making an investment of this sort. But I'm not going to now. Even if the bread were excellent - which I suspect it is - I don't care much for this book for two reasons.
First, Ken Forkish launches the book, in a lengthy first chapter in Part 1, "The Principles of Artisan Bread," with a long, self-absorbed, all-about-me narrative telling his personal story. Yes, it provides information as to where he's coming from. But frankly, I found it tedious. Take a look at the great cookbooks revered as classics. Not a single one focuses at such length and such detail on the author. A short resume on the back flap provides all the personal background I need, thank you.
Second, this otherwise beautiful book includes numerous glaring typographical errors. What a shame that the author and editors do not respect their readers enough to spend a little money on decent copy editing, especially in light of the resources spent for the excellent photography and design work that make the book visually exquisite. (And would someone please explain the hypocrisy here in devoting an entire section of self-righteous prose on the virtues of local sourcing of the flour used in Ken's Artisan Bakery and Ken's Artisan Pizza, while sending this book off to China for printing?)
I wanted to love this book, but I don't. My wild yeast levain, created using simpler methods (described in William Alexander's "52 Loaves"), and the outstanding artisan bread it produces, without any special equipment, will continue to serve me well. I may at some point decide that the additional investment of money and scarce space in my kitchen will be worth it for a marginally better loaf of bread. But I'm not there yet. ;o)
December 2012 · Books