Bests & Worsts Reviews from Amazon

This was a huge undertaking for me. I did hours of research (YouTube, reading the manual cover to cover, searching for wiring info on my vehicle). This remote start doesn't come with anything but a single sheet of instructions but another Amazon review here posted a different model with an identical system by another name, he saved my life because I couldn't find it online myself (It's called the Avital Model 4103). This project is not for the faint of heart but if you're a stubborn, cheap and proud DIY'er like me I would like to save you some trouble and share some knowledge with you. Please note that I am not an expert installer, I learned a s*** in the process of doing this but I'm no expert. Do your own research and do this right or just pay an installer. This took me 10 hours to install and 2 hours of troubleshooting to fine tune. A quality installer will charge you $150-200, it's worth it if you have a newer vehicle (especially if it has a security system). What do I need that's not obvious?: 1. T-Taps: These bite into smaller wires and allow you to plug another wire into them. 2. Terminal Quick Connects: These plug into the T-Taps. 3. A Multimeter: For testing wires to make sure you have the right wire. You can also use a wire penetrating probe, it's a lot cheaper but the instructions expressly disapprove of their use. 4. Wire Penetrating Leads (for your Multimeter): These poke a tiny hole into your wires so you can test them more easily). 5. Liquid Electrical Tape: I used this on smaller wires to seal up my holes, many pro installers say this isn't necessary but I erred on the side of safety. 6. Various Zip Ties: for tidying up and mounting your remote start. 7. Shrink Tubing: I used it to along with zip ties to insulate the wires I clipped off. 8. A good quality pad for your knees or a short stool to sit on. 9. (Optional): Soldering Iron. WTH is all this stuff?! Buttons and Switches: 1. Programming Button (little black button, 2 pin connector at its end): It plugs directly into the unit and allows you to change settings on your remote start (vehicle run time etc). 2. Toggle Switch (on off switch 2 wires protruding): This gets wired to the Black/White Neutral Safety Switch Wire (on 5 pin Remote Start Harness) and ground. 3. Momentary Switch (long switch that when depressed breaks contact and springs back): This gets wired to Ground and the Blue/White Activation Input Wire (if it's not depressed, when your vehicle starts it will shut off in about a second) I believe this is intended to be used as a Hood Pin Switch (when your hood is closed your vehicle will start, when it's not your vehicle will shut off promptly or won't start) I bought a Mercury Switch and mounted it under my hood instead because these are notorious for breaking in time. Essential Harnesses: 1. Main Harness (9 Pins): (Connected with T-Taps and Terminal Connectors) 1a) light green/black: (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Disarm: I clipped it because my vehicle doesn't have an alarm 2a) green/white: (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Rearm: same as above, clipped. 3a) yellow: (+) Ingnition Out (to alarm): same as above, clipped. 4a) white/blue: (-) Activation Input: hooked to ground then to mercury switch mounted under hood (recommended). 5a) orange: (-) 500mA Ground When Locked/Anti-Grind Output: my truck doesn't have power locks so I clipped it. 6a) brown: (-) 200mA Horn Output: Wired to my horn wire. 7a) red/white: (-) 200mA Trunk Release Output: Clipped, I drive a truck. 8a) black: Ground my chassis with a Dremmel and securely screwed it in w/ a self tapping screw and lock washer. 9a) white: (+/-) Light Flash Output: Wired to my parking light wire behind my dash. 2. Remote Start Harness (6 Pins): (I spliced and spread my ignition wires, twisted these in securely, soldered them, carefully wrapped them with good electrical tape and put zip ties on their ends to prevent anything from coming lose or becoming exposed. T-Taps are not recommended because these are high voltage wires): 2a) red1: (+) (30A) High Current 12V Input: Twisted together with 2c (Red 2) and wired to 12V Constant in my ignition harness. 2b) pink/white: Output to Second Ignition/Accessory Circuit: I clipped and insulated it. 2c) red2: (+) (30A) High Current 12V Input: Twisted together with 2a (Red 1) and wired to 12V Constant in my ignition harness. 2d) orange: (+) (30A)Output to Accessory Circuit: Connected to Accessory Wire in Ignition Harness. 2e) purple: (+) (30A) Output to Starter Circuit: Connected to Starter Wire in Ignition Harness. 2f) pink: (+) (30A) Output to Primary Ignition Circuit: Connected to Ignition Wire in Ignition Harness. 3. Remote Start Harness (5 Pin Connector): 3a) black/white (-): Neutral Safety Switch Input: Wired to Toggle Switch and Ground. 3b) violet/white: Tachometer Input Wire: I skipped this wire but did not clip it, the Virtual Tach feature works well without it. 3c) brown (+): Brake Shutdown Input Wire: I wired it to my Brake Wire in my driver side kick panel, it turns off the remote start when my brake is depressed. 3d) gray (-): Hood Pin Switch Shutdown Wire: I skipped this wire but didn't clip it, I am honestly not 100% certain about this one. I believe it gets wired to your vehicles Hood Pin (-) Wire but my vehicle doesn't have a Hood Pin, I may tie this into my Mercury Switch (added component). 3e) blue/white (-): 200mA 2nd Status/Rear Defogger: I clipped it, I don't have a rear defogger. 4. Satellite Harness (4 Pins): 4a) This just plugs into the little receiver unit that you run through your trim and mount to your windshield. VIDEOS: (Amazon keeps deleting my YouTube links so here are video names so that you can search them) PREP WORK: Video Name: Part I - How To Car Alarm Remote Start System Installation YouTuber: Lessco Electronics WIRE CHARACTERISTICS: Video Name: Part 3 / 4 Alarm Remote Starter Installation How To Series YouTuber: Lessco Electronics I don't agree with the way he spliced into his ignition wires, it seems to me that his connections could easily come lose over time. I chose to splice in and solder to make things more secure and permanent. He states that it makes things really bulky, if you don't over-solder it will not. Anyway, I hope this helps people who decide to be bold and do this themselves. I want to further stress that I am not an expert, do this at your own risk and be smart about it. Pictures: 1. Prep work. 2,3,4. Splicing into, soldering, insulating and securing the ignition wires (I cleaned up the flux residue after I took this picture, it was my first wire). 5. Scary mess (I tidied up all the wires with zip ties and electrical tape once I knew everything worked). Good luck!