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A couple of hints about this and all pumps of this type
First off I rebuild pumps and rewind electric motors for a living. Most of the rewinds are 15hp to 200 hp and most of the pumps have 9 to 12 inch impellers but I also rebuild small lawn irrigation pumps like this one, especially this time of year. I won't work on Wayne, Red Lion's or other similar throw away pumps because who is going to pay $66 an hour to fix something this cheap? Most of the small pumps I get are Gould's, Meyers and Franklin...
Typical mistakes that keep us business
1. All pumps like these should not be ran outside without some kind of shelter! It is an electric motor filled with conductive copper wire and is NOT water proof! If you get the winding wet you will ground the winding to the stator and possibly burn it out. If you do not have a proper ground you could be electrocuted as well if your near by and standing in water. Also if you READ the label you will see the max temperature in Celsius the motor can run. If your pump is in the sun the case will be hotter than the outside temperature, kind of like your car in the sun. The hotter the motor is the more amps it will draw!
2, Running too small of a cord
If you Google "wire size calculator" and put in the amps the motor draws (12 amps running) (21 amps start up, for example). A 100 foot cord run Should be 12ga or 10ga copper, NOT 14 like I see people on here using. Look at the label for the 115v amps not the 230v amps if the motor is 115/230v.
By running too small of a cord you are starving the motor for power especially during start up. This is very hard on the winding when the pump is running and could burn out the start capacitor (black thing located under the back plate) or burn out the start winding. It is also very hard on the start switch contacts in the motor. This can also lead to the start winding shorting to the main winding causing the motor to run at very high amps until it burns up. People running motors on low voltage makes our shop allot of money!
3. Storing the motor outside when not in use for a long time.
This is the number one reason I have so many pumps in the shop this time of year.
Leaving your pump outside for the winter or uncovered where it can get moisture will rust up the inside of the pump and the motor bearings. Yes stainless steel will rust. This can cause problems if it builds up around the seat of the seal. Rust will also build up about the shaft of the motor where the seal is and eventually leak, spraying water into the motor and front bearing causing failure.
4. Clogged suction line or lack of prime.
if the pump is not primed properly the seal will fail and the impeller will seize on the ware ring of the diffuser. When this happens the motor will draw too much amps or lock up causing failure of the winding if the thermal doesn't go off in time or has gone off too many times. This can happen in a matter of a minute or less. Water is the lubricant for the seal and ware ring.
5. Clogged impeller
The impellers in most of these pumps have veins that are only 1/8 of an inch or less in width. If your drawing water from a river or lake then they can get clogged pretty fast. I've cleaned everything from seeds to pine needle from these impellers. THESE PUMPS ARE NOT GARBAGE PUMPS. The impellers are not made for anything but clean water!
Anyway that is my two bits from a guy who is buried knee deep in broken pumps this time of year.
Hope they help
June 2014 · Patio Lawn and Garden